Nostalgic for Sailing Days; Finally Successful in Jewelry Search
Days 120-123, 2025 European Odyssey
Sunday to Wednesday, Oct. 26-29, 2025; Marmaris and Kusadasi, Turkey, and Rhodes, Greece.
Something festive was in the air as I circled the yacht harbor in Marmaris, Turkey. Restaurants and shops lined the promenade surrounding the harbor, but the action was to my left. Banners and flags flapped in the wind, as boat crews prepped their sailing yachts for what turned out to be the first day of the 36th Marmaris International Race Week. It is one of the Mediterranean’s largest regattas, with as many as 150 yachts participating in five days of coastal and offshore racing.
By the time I returned to the ship, most yachts had left the harbor to race, with just small pup tents on the docks holding their extra gear. As sunset approached, the parade of sailboats returned, each backing perfectly down the piers and into the marina slips.
I fell in love with sailing as a young teenager at scout sailing camp in Arkansas. Years later when I moved to New Jersey, I bareboat chartered and captained sailboats from Maine to the Chesapeake, Florida to the Caribbean.
I never thought I would “retire” from sailing to cruising on a huge ship. It’s been a fun transition, although while watching the race week in Marmaris I missed my days of sailing. Turkey would be a beautiful place to spend time at sea.
In the center of Marmaris, I found time to sketch another mosque, this one with a different style of minaret. From the distance it looked like a rocket waiting to launch into space.
Like many places in Turkey, Marmaris has an extensive covered marketplace selling everything from clothes and shoes to jewelry and suitcases.
Kusadasi, being much larger than Marmaris, has more extensive markets radiating out from the port. On my two recent stops here, I explored the wide bay. This time I headed away from the water into the maze of narrow streets surrounding a wide promenade.
My goal was to spend the last of my Turkish lira, as this is our final stop here. I found the perfect place – a mini mart full of familiar crew faces from the ship. Spicy Pringles are a favorite so I filled my shopping bag with treats for my cabin stewards.
Just looking up the narrow but colorful stairs heading straight up the hill made my head spin. Only a few locals trudged up. As I returned to the ship, vendors offered me choices of leather goods, carpets and “genuine fake” watches. But I resisted.
Back in Rhodes for the third time this fall, I didn’t resist when it came to buying jewelry. Several passengers complimented the necklace I bought here earlier, so I headed back to the same shop. It took me all day to find it.
Taking advantage of our overnight stop, I headed out early the second morning to catch the sun. Once inside the gate of the walled old city, I veered off the touristy streets, joined only by the occasional resident on a motor scooter.
I somewhat followed the route my friend Kari followed a few weeks ago to visit orthodox churches. Just as she discovered, St. Phanourios Church did not allow inside photographs, but I found the frescos in its small chapel to be impressive, especially considering this church was built in the 13th century.
The nearby church of Agia Triada took me to the 15th century. It proved a good place to stand and sketch, accompanied only by several resident cats enjoying the morning sun.
Continuing on through back alleys and paths, I finally reached the crowds surrounding the Palace of the Grand Master. I had thought by now I would have stumbled upon “my” jewelry store, but no such luck. I paused for coffee, my excuse to commandeer the front table at a restaurant across from the clock tower.
The Street of the Knights is refreshingly void of commercial establishments, lined with what once were the residences of the Knights Hospitaller, a Catholic military order also known as the Knights of St. John.
I wasn’t about to give up in my search and pulled up the tracking map I made on my previous visit. The only area I hadn’t searched was near the Ibrahim Pasha Mosque.
I finally turned a corner and there it was! Vana, the owner, remembered me and pulled out several other pieces of jewelry she thought I would like. I left with four more necklaces and a new friendship. If you are in Rhodes, look for Vana’s Gift Shop at ΣοφοκλÎους 4. Or here:
Looks like you are having great weather for this time of year. Your pictures bring back great memories of our stops here. Rhodes is till one of our back list ports of call.
Great pic,s. You really captured the atmosphere.
Loving all your blogs! It’s amazing how many steps you put in at the ports. WTG!
I love that you love to shop along with other things. Especially jewelry! Would love to see your purchases! It’s a perfect thing to buy when traveling!
Rhodes is so charming!
Love the picture of you and your dad off the coast of Martha’s Vineyard. Such joy on your face!
Thanks again for sharing your adventures.
What a nice day you had, but I want to see the jewelry you bought!
I like your clock tower sketch👍🏻
Hi Jo,
Love reading your blog.
I have a question… are you on the same ship as Coné Becker?
Shes posted some overlapping ports with you.
I know it’s a long shot but thought I’d ask.
Diane
Hi, Diane! Thanks. I don’t know Coné Becker and I don’t see anyone on the Navigator with that name. The Volendam has been a day or two behind us at some ports so perhaps there.
I really enjoy reading about you and your sailing adventures, back in the day. Thank you for sharing that with your readers.
On another note, I was wondering if you ever considered sketching the interior of a place of worship? I googled to see if that would be allowed and here is the response that popped up:
“I have supported my family as a graphic designer for 40 years. I have traveled all over the world and have been kicked out of some dandy places. But I’ve learned that if I show my sketch book or drawing pad first and tell or show that I love the place and think it is fabulous, I can get into just about any place. I drew in the Omayed Moske in Damascus, so I know it isn’t a prohibition thing. Sometime you cannot reason, but most of the time I have run into folks who were flattered that I wanted to take the time to stop and look. He may have gotten upset if you were including human figures in your drawing. Representing the human figure is against the Koran as some interpret it. Keep drawing. Don’t stop. Go out one door and in another and show that sketchbook to someone who looks official. You will be rewarded.”
Food for thought, but we will continue to enjoy whatever you decide to sketch and paint, Jo. Keep on, keep on.
In your last sketch, I enlarged it to look for you. I was sure I was going to see you in it, sitting at the front table, sketching the clock tower, LOL.
By the way, if you are planning to sail on the Legendary Coral Triangle & Great Barrier Reef itinerary in 2027, I would love to join you for dinner one evening. Glenda