North Pacific Tosses Us Around from Japan to Alaska

Days 103-110, 2026 Grand World Voyage

Friday to Thursday, April 17-23, 2026; Hakodate, Japan, and Seven Days at Sea

If you placed a map of Japan over a map of the North American east coast, our six Japanese ports would stretch from Miami to Nova Scotia. Most maps — whether printed or on Google — distort the size of many countries. That’s why Africa might look the same size as Greenland, even though it’s about 14 times bigger.

Late Friday night we sailed out of Hakodate on Hokkaido (the northernmost of Japan’s four main islands), leaving Japan and heading into seven sea days – and seven time changes – on our way to Alaska.

The ports on Hokkaido are known for fresh fish, and we started our day Friday wandering through the Hakodate Morning Market just off the cruise pier.

Over four square blocks, we saw 250 food stalls selling live fish in tanks (they’ll cook the squid you caught on the spot), giant steamed crab claws, slivered and smoked squid, and lots of fish and other foods that were unfamiliar to me. The sweet Yubari melons for which this area is known weren’t yet in season. They can cost as much as $80 each.

As we left the market, we passed by a park with what I believe were a few early flowering cherry blossoms. After arriving in the previous five Japanese ports too late for the showy flowers, we are here about four days too early for the full bloom.

When we arrived at the Red Brick Warehouse district, my intentions were to sketch and shop. I realized I had sketched the exact same scene in 2024 and wasn’t particularly inspired by a different scene to capture. Next time I’m here (planned for fall of 2027), I’ll start earlier and venture a bit further afield to sketch some of the city’s distinctive churches.

I remembered that the warehouse shop stores carried better-than-the-average souvenirs, but it was mostly items that didn’t interest me (pottery, birthstone jewelry, sesame seed foodstuffs, etc.) Could I be getting tired of window shopping?

Back at the ship Japanese officials conducted face-to-face inspections so we could leave the country.

Our route across the North Pacific Ocean took us close to the Kamchatka Peninsula of Russia, which I visited in 2018, but not close enough this time to see land.

Instead of skirting the south side of the Aleutian Islands, we ducked into the Bering Sea on the north. Normally the Bering Sea isn’t the preferred route for smooth sailing (see any episode of The Deadliest Catch), but during our transit a low-pressure system had parked itself in the North Pacific, and the islands provided some cover from the winds and swells.

We had a few days of 15-plus foot seas and a lot of movement on the ship – enough that Capt. Frank closed the outside decks and warned us to wear sensible shoes and move carefully around the ship. Those of us who have the Windy app and know sea and weather conditions realize what an amazing job he did in threading the needle to find the smoothest seas. It could have been much worse.

Despite the ship’s motion, we enjoyed a “walk around the world” sampling of wines. Cellar Master Jobelle always provides interesting selections that expand my palate beyond my favorite 13 Celsius Sauvignon Blanc.

A multitude of activities have kept away boredom on these seven sea days. Guest speakers’ topics included natural Alaska, from whales to sea otters to the polar biomass, and stories of traveling the world. Drawing, watercolor, crafts, bridge, mah jongg, tai chi and other classes continue. One day Chef Tiffany showed up with dozens of decorated cakes.

We moved the clock forward each of the seven days at noon, which immediately became 1 p.m. I think it helped me adapt better than during the night, but more than once I missed my intended early afternoon activities.

Calling it Groundhog Day (movie reference), we repeated Monday, April 20, as we crossed the International Date Line. We are making up for Feb. 27, the day we skipped when crossing the line going west. My laptop and smartphone were pretty confused, but not as much as my Polarsteps app that has been quietly tracking our journey since January. By Wednesday everything except Polarsteps was back in order.

Outside temperatures fell to the low 30s some nights; it seems like just a couple of weeks ago that we were in the tropics.

Despite the cold, more than 400 blankets covered the lido deck chairs and tables one morning. Not for warmth, but the result of knitting and crocheting by passengers on this cruise. It’s the world cruise’s annual Project Linus, providing cherished blankets to seriously ill children.

Of course, I have delighted in a couple of specialty meals in the Pinnacle Grill. One day we had a delicious Spanish lunch.

A few days ago the ship’s own Chef John presented a five-course “Pacific Bridge to Northwest” as we neared Alaska. It ranged from crudo with scallops from Hokkaido, a dashi consommé, sisho-ginger line maple infused sorbet, lamb loin with foraged mushrooms and a black sesame and matcha opera cake. Creative cocktails and wines accompanied the courses.

As usual, the chefs and Pinnacle staff took well-deserved bows.