Maritime Cruise Combines Culinary Delights, ‘New Scotland’ Scenery

Days 7-10, 2026 Fall Atlantic Sampler

Friday to Monday, Oct. 2-5, 2026; Charlottetown, PEI; Sydney and Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada.

Leaving behind the new-to-me ports in French-speaking Quebec, I now am in familiar territory and on a quest for mussels and lobster in the Canadian maritime provinces. Prince Edward Island is the source of some of the sweetest and most tender mussels in my opinion, so when we docked in PEI’s capital city of Charlottetown, I didn’t waste much time before heading to Peake’s Quay.

During my past stops here I’ve found some of the best mussels at Peake’s. I added a cup of chowder and a glass of wine and left full and happy. As I earlier passed Dave’s Lobster, I checked the price of a lobster roll ($36 Canadian), but knew I would have opportunities for that other local specialty in the next couple of ports.

I can go a whole cruise without getting ice cream on the ship, but I couldn’t resist a famous Cow’s Wowie Cowie cone, with vanilla ice cream, English toffee marble, chocolate flakes and Moo Crunch. It lasted just long enough for the walk to St. Dunstan’s Basilica, across the street from the Great George Hotel.

In front of the hotel is a sculpture of two men deep in conversation. They are John Hamilton Gray and John Hamilton Gray. Yes, they shared the same name, and the story is that their conversation here let to the Confederation of Canada.

With the beginning of October comes the fall festivals and approach to Halloween. The city is celebrating both. Scarecrows are scattered around town, with a few skeletons mixed in.

Cruisers may know our next port Sydney best for the giant fiddle on the pier, which dwarfed Eloise. Someday I would like to rent a car to drive the Cabot Trail, described as a breathtaking coastal adventure, but that will have to remain on my list.

On my first visit to Sydney I enjoyed an excursion to Baddeck, home of the Alexander Graham Bell museum. It brought back my years working for AT&T.

My only intention in Sydney this time was to browse the dozen or so booths and shops on the pier, but my sisters messaged me from the nearby Island Folk Cider House. I joined them for some flights and a lobster roll. Elaine opted for mussels. It was another beautiful day and we enjoyed the patio, with its adjoining food trailer.

The good weather continued the next day in Halifax, capital of Nova Scotia. Many cities with waterfronts could do well to visit here for inspiration. The wide boardwalk stretches at least a mile from the cruise pier. It weaves among play areas, historic sculptures, shops and food booths to the excellent maritime museum. Adirondack chairs line the way, giving locals and tourists alike great opportunities to rest and relax.

My only disappointment was that Maps and More: The Travel Store on the waterfront was closed, it being a Sunday. It’s a good place to find the maps I like to mount on my stateroom wall to track our voyages. Instead, I settled for sketching a colorful row of Adirondack chairs, and then sitting in one to start the New York Times Sunday crossword.

At night, we seem to eat everywhere except the dining room and Lido. My sisters’ Have It All package includes extra specialty dining on top of the dinners that come with their 5-star status. I have more than I will use, so we had dinner in the Italian Canaletto one night and a few in the Pinnacle Grill. On Monday, we had a Pinnacle lunch. It’s one of the best deals on the ship – essentially the evening menu at half the price. It’s only open for lunch on sea days.

Two people on this cruise received Mariner medallions – based on nights at sea – and as usual, they invite President’s Club members to join the ceremony and be recognized by posing for a photo with the captain and hotel general manager. I think it’s mainly to inspire others to keep cruising so they, too, may one day pose for a photo. When the tall Capt. Rens teased the shorter me by kneeling, I teased him back by asking if he needed a hand up.