Gathering My Courage, I Set Out to Explore Istanbul On My Own

Day 108, 2025 European Odyssey

Tuesday, Oct. 14, 2025; Istanbul, Turkey.

There are 3,113 mosques in Istanbul. I’m guessing most tourists visit two: Hagia Sophia Mosque and the Blue (or Sultan Ahmed) Mosque. That’s exactly what I did on my first visit here, a couple of weeks ago. Being close to each other means they are on most general city tours. And they are magnificent.

I didn’t really have plans to visit another mosque this week when we returned to Istanbul, but a dinner tablemate passionately urged me to visit the Rüstem Pasha Mosque in order to see its magnificent interior. He suggested I walk there, saying I would find it a little more than a mile away, just across the Galata Bridge from the cruise pier.

As I crossed the bridge and looked ahead, I anticipated a steep climb, seeing the massive mosque at the top of the hill. As it turns out, that is the Süleymaniye Mosque sitting on the hilltop – commissioned by Süleiman the Magnificent and built in classical Ottoman architecture.

You could easily overlook the Rüstem Pasha Mosque (the dome in the lower left corner of the photo above). It lives up to its reputation as a hidden gem, with the emphasis on hidden. Had I not done a bit of research, I never would have found it. An almost hidden door (left in the first photo below), marked only by a small plaque, leads to a dark stairway. I wasn’t sure I was in the right place until I exited to a bright and almost deserted courtyard, surrounded by columns and archways.

As I arrived, I realized that I had forgotten my headscarf, required of all women in mosques. I was glad I had opted to wear a light sweater instead of my jean jacket. The sweater worked just fine.

Despite its humble appearance from outside, the Rüstem Pasha Mosque is known for the blue Iznik tiles completely covering the walls. Rüstem Pasha was a wealthy statesman who wanted only the finest tiles used, and these from Iznik were the best. They are magnificent, both in their quality and in the variety of motifs. Fortunately, when I arrived there was only one other couple in the small mosque; by the time I left, a large tour group had arrived.

The narrow walkways around the mosque are full of markets selling every kind of household item, from knives to refrigerator water filters to power tools. It wasn’t until I reached the Spice Market nearby that I found shops catering to tourists, with spices, teas and Turkish Delight.

A few blocks away was another mosque, this one more imposing from the outside. The New Mosque sits at the foot of the Galata Bridge, and today the surrounding markets and courtyards were packed. Not just by people, but also by cats. In many areas the cats have taken residence, including a group of kittens here who have made a home in a suitcase.

Trees filled the courtyard, sending me farther down the street before I could find a vantage point for sketching.

By the time I had finished to my satisfaction, my feet were numb and I welcomed the walk to Şehzade Cağ Kebap, a highly regarded kebab place. A decade-old review in the New York Times is framed on the wall, helping to contribute to its fame. It has fewer than a dozen tables and only kebab on the menu (plus sides of salad and yogurt). I was seated at a long table between other diners and served two skewers of lamb, along with thin crepe-like bread. A cup of tea rounded out my meal.

Fishermen lined the Galata Bridge by late afternoon. I wasn’t sure if the fish in tubs of water were bait or a fresh catch, and I never saw anyone actually land a fish. But it was obviously a relaxing habit for many at the end of the day.

By the time I returned to the ship, the sun was setting on one of my more enjoyable days of exploring a Mediterranean port on my own. All that was left was to paint my sketch.

As Eleanor Roosevelt said, “Do not stop thinking of life as an adventure. You have no security unless you can live bravely, excitingly, imaginatively, unless you can choose a challenge instead of a competence.”