Why So Long to Visit Istanbul? No Idea, but Glad I’m Here!
Days 95-96, 2025 European Odyssey
Wednesday and Thursday, Oct. 1-2, 2025; Istanbul, Turkey.
I had no idea what to expect of Istanbul. I knew its name used to be Constantinople (thanks to They Might Be Giants). But not a lot more. My brief foray over the past two days was a delightful surprise. More Singapore and less Cairo. More Athens and less Chișinǎu (Moldova). More Cape Town and less Benoa.
In other words, it is like any modern city with an ancient past. Skyscrapers and ruins. Crazy traffic but efficient public transportation. I’ll admit, I spent my brief time here in tourist areas, so I still don’t have a feel for the chaotic bustle of most intriguing cities. I’m looking for opportunities to go further afield when I come back in two weeks.
Many of Istanbul’s most popular sites are grouped together and just a short tram ride from the new cruise terminal. It took a good 15 minutes of walking to leave the building complex and meet our private guide, who led the seven of us to the nearby tram.
Once at the Hippodrome, we set off on foot – learning about the chariot races that took place here and the history of the three columns (Obelisk of Theodosius, Serpent Column and Walled Obelisk).
My first reaction upon entering the Blue Mosque, just to the side of the Hippodrome, was that it doesn’t seem that blue to me. Its name comes from the blue tiles lining the inside, where huge pillars hold up the dome.
The line to enter moved steadily, passing through a station to ensure that everyone was dressed properly – shoulders and knees covered, and scarves covering the heads of women. The simple white scarf I bought years ago in Egypt was perfect.
Next we walked to the Hagai Sophia Grand Mosque – much larger and older than the Blue Mosque. Completed in 537AD as a church, it was the world’s largest interior space at the time and set the standard for Byzantine architecture. In 1453 after Constantinople’s fall, it became a mosque.
Today its upper floor is a museum, from which we could view the huge interior, featuring both Islamic themes and original mosaics of Jesus, Mary and John the Baptist.
Next, we moved to the Basilica Cistern, the largest of the many subterranean cisterns used to store water since the 6th century. A modular steel walkway was added in the last few years, allowing us to walk among 336 marble columns that held up the roof. It was hard to imagine the chamber filled with water.
Medusa’s head is carved into the base of two of the columns. A shadow cast by a modern Medusa statue adds to the intrigue.
It seems you cannot have a tour in Turkey without visiting a carpet shop, and one in our group was interesting in making a purchase. The rest of us explored a nearby market (the same as the Grand Bazaar, just smaller, our guide said) and sampling Turkish Delight and tea before his haggling resulted in a purchase and we headed for lunch. My lamb kabab was wonderful, and we all left full.
The day wasn’t over, so we crossed past the mosques to Topkapi Palace, once the center of government for the Ottoman Empire and the residence of its sultans. Rather than a tall commanding palace, it’s a complex of many ornate buildings.
After reaching the fourth courtyard, we were rewarded with a stunning view of the Bospherus Strait and the Sea of Marmara.
By now I had reached my saturation point – I’ll need to return again to truly appreciate the entire palace. Having retraced our way to the tram, through the cruise terminal and back to the ship, I was not surprised that I logged more than 20,000 steps.
Today, I stayed closer to the terminal and still managed 10,000 steps. I couldn’t find a suitable café for sketching, so sat on a bench to draw the the Nusretiye Mosque, built in the Baroque style.
I wandered the nearby narrow streets, checking menu boards in a search for a repeat of yesterday’s lamb kabob lunch, but didn’t see anything that justified the prices. I did see umbrellas shading the street, a trend that has traveled the world.
From Istanbul, it’s a sea day tomorrow and then another turnaround port, this time in Athens. I’m down to the last two months of my odyssey, and it seems to be going fast.
So pleased to hear that you loved Istanbul. We loved Turkey so much. Unfortunately we can no longer travel as my husband has had strokes and heart attacks and travel insurance is well out of our range.
We spent 3 weeks there in 2016 and there is just so much history to soak up.
I really enjoy your blog and I am thrilled that you take us all along with you.
Hi Jo,
We first visited on a HAL overnighter in 2012, doing three HAL excursions to cover the main tourist sites, including the inevitable carpet maker with the usual sales pitch. We even came close to buying!
As you know, we are back there on Volendam’s Med cruise next October/November. Suspect we will just potter around the city, perhaps re-visit the Grand Bazaar and otherwise look for some cosy cafes to enjoy the best of Turkish coffee and cooking.
I’ll be with you next year!
Follow-up point: did you know that one of the scenes from “From Russia with Love” was filmed in the Basilica Cistern?
Cheers,
Ian
We love Istanbul, so rich in history, so much to see & not enough time even with an overnight stop. We have been there four times and still have only scratched the surface.
I always love seeing the photos of your sketches. Thanks for sharing!
Thank you! We start our Ultimate Med cruise on the Volendam on Tuesday, 7th. I’m really looking forward to Istanbul and Athens. Love your descriptions and observations!
Thanks for your insight. We will be there on the Volendam in about a month!
I loved some of the jewels in Topkapi Palace. There was a bowl of emeralds that I just wanted to dig into and let them run through my fingers.
You seem to have seen most of the places I visited while there. Do enjoy your next stop in Istanbul, too.
Thank you, once again, for your posts. I love reading them.
Who did you use for your private tour. We are doing something similar to what you are doing in 2027.
Years ago, on one of the world cruises, they had their “big night” down in the cisterns! I can only imagine what that was like! Incredible, I’m sure! Maybe one day we’ll get back to celebrations like that. Like the one in Ephesus…wow, that was incredible.
Looking forward to your return visit to hear what you do outside the city. We’ve only been in the city on our visits.
Linda R.
How fun to follow along with you for your day in Istanbul! We had a 2 week tour planned to Turkey in May of 2020 which, of course, got cancelled. Now it is doubtful that we will ever make it.
Please keep sharing your sketches…I only wish I had a fraction of your artistic talent. And at some point I would love to see the finished product after you have added color!