Guggenheim Bilbao Stretches My Art Vision Beyond Impressionism
Days 73-75, 2025 European Odyssey
Tuesday to Thursday, Sept. 9-11, 2025; Portland, England, and Bilbao, Spain.
My lack of port planning is starting to catch up with me. I spent time in the spring planning the Northern Europe part of this odyssey, but figured I would plan the second half along the way. Busy port days and few sea days cut into my planning time.
Suddenly, Bilbao was next and I was unprepared. It’s my first visit to this port on the north coast of Spain in Basque country and one seldom on Holland America itineraries. By now the shore excursions were sold out. I put my name on waiting lists and resigned myself to figuring out the shuttle to the train to the city center.
Following a hunch as we docked, I went to the shore excursion meeting area and lucked out. Someone didn’t show for the “Bilbao on Your Own” transfer to the Guggenheim Museum.
I also had not researched the Guggenheim, so like a number of fellow cruisers I was a bit surprised by its collection. No Impressionists, no Dutch Masters, no Asian art. To my untrained eyes, the building was the most stunning piece of art I saw all day. The morning sun reflected off its curved titanium exterior. Puppy, a huge topiary of a West Highland Terrier puppy composed of 38,000 flowering plants (this season petunias, begonias, dimorphothecas, alyssum and impatiens) welcomes visitors to the entrance.
Inside, contemporary exhibits fill enormous galleries. I’ll admit much of the art and sculpture doesn’t speak to me. But I was entranced by “Another Day. Another Night.” Barbara Kruger’s special installation over several galleries using words as art challenged me to critically consider the words I choose. The text of phrases, such as the U.S. Pledge of Allegiance and traditional wedding vows scrolled across screens, flashing replacement words that changed the meanings. I was so entranced that I didn’t take any photographs. It certainly opened my way of left-brain thinking about art.
After wandering through the exhibits of modern and contemporary art, sculptures and outdoor installations, I had time to walk the few blocks to Moyúa Square, a stunning plaza filled with flowers.
I window-shopped as I enjoyed the great weather and got some exercise. It was obvious that we have headed south. The Bay of Biscay delivered its typical swells as we sailed south from Portland, England.
In Portland on Tuesday, I once again chose not to take an excursion to Stonehenge. It’s never held much interest to me since I learned you can’t just wander through the storied stone columns. Perhaps next time.
Instead, I followed the route of my previous visits, taking the shuttle to the nearby town of Weymouth. It’s a charming village sitting on the mouth of the Wey River (duh!).
After crossing the bridge to the main part of town, I wandered down a pedestrian street lined both with tourist shops and businesses catering to local residents. I love these seaside towns on the south coast of England. And as it is September, many families have left, leaving the streets, the promenade and the beach to pensioners (retirees), every one of which seems to have at least one dog.
My camera just couldn’t capture the soft blue of waves cresting on the beach. But I did take lots of pictures of the quiet waterfront scenes, devoid of the summer crowds I saw here in 2023.
This being our last English port, I had to stop for a final lunch of fish and chips. I suspect I will have more grilled sardines and paella in my immediate future. It’s no wonder I can’t seem to lose the 5 pounds I expected to this summer.
We were able to get on an excursion when there were “no shows” when we were on board. We’d had one booked but it was cancelled due to weather so it worked out for us.
And now I know what port we need to be at to go to Stonehenge – Portland. We do have interest in going but have never been in the right place, or taken the time from London.
I enjoyed your pictures of Weymouth. We passed through there on a stop in Portland but went elsewhere. Don’t remember exactly as this was in 2019. I do however vividly remember Bilbao and the Guggenheim! And that was back in September of 2004. I don’t remember the art inside the museum, but I was overwhelmed by the building itself. I think that was what kindled my interest in architecture. I must have over a dozen photos of the outside of the building from various view points: some up close and some from the bridge nearby. I am happy to see the Puppy is still there after all these years. I also remember walking around the town center and being very taken with it.
One final comment: I urge you to go to Stonehenge. While you can no longer walk among the stones you can get close, especially in the fall when it isn’t so crowded with tourists. It is quite interesting and impressive.